Capt'n Pauley's Virtual Boat Yard -- Projects Galore!!!

Custom Replacement Handrails

The mahogany handrails aboard our boat were toast. They had been sanded and refinished until they were to skinny to be safe. It was time to replace them. The question was with what would replace them. Teak or mahogany handrails are widely used aboard power and sailboats but, in most cases, they were custom made by the boatbuilding company to fit a specific boat.

 

There were stock wooden handrails, polymer lumber handrails as well as stainless steel ones on the shelf or in boat supply catalogs. The problem was none of them fit our boat. They were too long or too short. They were straight while ours were curved. The stainless steel models were too short and got too hot in the direct sun.

 

Visit Purgatory Cove Fish Dock & Marina

If you have noticed the lack of nautical humor here on The Virtual Boatyard, there is a reason. It's on our sisyer-site www.purgatorycove.com. Visit there to follow the exploits of Sam. Lefty and Wade, proprietors of Purgatory Cove.

Enjoy!

Saving the Boat

Sounds somewhat dramatic, doesn’t it? Drama aside, it doesn’t hurt to be prepared for an emergency afloat. This time, we’ll be talking about things you can have aboard to help in the advent of a serious leak in the hull.

 

Re-Naming the Boat

We changed the name of our boat and found this ceremony in one of our old sailing books.  Please don’t be offended by any part of it.

 

 

De-naming Ceremony

 

Sailors are a superstitious lot and changing the name of your boat has been called a risky proposition. Too cavalier an attitude might anger the gods. Therefore it is customary to go through a de-naming ceremony before renaming.  So here we go!

 

“Christina” first took to the water in San Francisco Bay in the late 1970s.  She sailed well and kept her crew safe.  Later she changed coasts and sailed the Atlantic from her new homeport of Little River, South Carolina. She sailed the coast, served as a floating home for a while and cruised the ICW until her owner found other interests.  We found her in the Coquina Harbor in 1997.  We brought her here to Tennessee to begin her life anew.

 

So, in honor of her past life and in accordance with seafaring traditions from time immemorial, we ask Zeus, god of thunder, Poseidon, god of the oceans and Aeolus, god of the winds to witness the renaming and rededication of the fair ship “Christina”, bless her and all who have sailed in her. 

 

 

 

 

Re-naming Ceremony

 

It is now time to rename and rededicate her.  Let all gathered here witness the rededication of this vessel to the care of the Seas and the Winds. May she never anger Typhoon and may Zephyrus, Boreas, Argetses and Auster favor her in proper turn. May the Sirens sing her not to wreck but to safety and may the gods be pleased with her new name.  Your name is now “Bryn Awel of Bristol”.  May the Gods be pleased wherever they find you and favor you with their care.  Fair winds and following seas.

 

In England it is customary to name the houses. Bryn Awel was the house of maternal grandparents near Winchester, England where I lived for the first seven month of my life.  It is Welsh and roughly translates to “Windy Ridge”.

 

The custom of christening a ship with champagne is an affectation of the Victorian era.  In earliest times, ships were christened with the blood of a virgin.  Since they are in short supply these days, red wine is the liquid of choice.

2012 Eastern Messabout

June, 1-2-3 2012

Elk Neck State Park, MD

“Rogue Harbor"

 

The thoroughly delightful days of 2011 are still vivid memories. 40 skippers, 60 boats, families & friends. See Photos @

 

www.duckworksmagazine.com/11/gatherings/eastern/index.htm

 

But it's already time to put 2012 on the calendar! Same weekend, same location, same general format & arrangements … three days of “messing about” … an INFORMAL gathering for sailboats, powerboats, canoe & kayak; home-built or commercial. Nail & glue, stitch & glue or "traditional". BUT … with some added attractions.

 

A "Symposium” or whatever by one of our fellow rogues, Paul Moffitt. Paul originated the OBX130 and has sailed the Outer Banks for years. He has also sailed the Texas 200 a couple times. Paul will sketch his instigation and sailing of the OBX 130 .. the boats, the route, the skippers, & the challenges .. including the proposed route for 2012.

 

We'll gather Sat. at dusk by the beach with slides … a file with more details is being posted & an album with some additional pictures like-wise. (Look and click to the left.) There will be time to ask questions, swap stories, and mellow out after a day of sailing.

 

PLUS … raft up lunch at Cabin John Creek, a Marsh mellow Scoop for smaller craft, open“Poker Run”, PDR races (a regional warm-up). Door prizes & who knows what !!!

 

The Park arrangements are the same – make your own reservations, ramp fees, etc.

 

http://www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/central/elkneck.asp

 

For continuing information on the event and attendees, visit:

 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EasternMessabout/

Insurance and the Boat Restorer

It’s no secret that we live in a litigious society. I’ve heard that the United States has more lawyers per capita than any other country in the world. It’s hard to get through a nightly newscast without learning about yet another lawsuit brought against someone, often for what seems s like a trivial item.

What’s this got to do with boating and more specifically boat restoring? Think about it, a boat being restored is what is called an “attractive nuisance”. People like to come around, offer advice, rubber-neck and sometimes even try to help out. A slip off the deck, a falling tool and suddenly someone is suing you. If you happen to keep your boat in a marina of boatyard, that business will often require you to provide proof of liability just to protect them.

I recently found myself in just such a situation. I have my 26-foot project boat in a local boatyard that allows owners to work on their own boats. I picked up the boat from another restorer who had grown tired of working on the boat. I only paid a dollar for the boat, just to make the transfer legal. Since the purchase price of the boat was so low and the restoration hasn’t gotten to the point of substantially upgrading the value of the boat, I never bothered to insure it.

However, this year my boatyard began asking for certificates of insurance on all boats in the yard. I've got a full yacht policy on the 35-footer and my 20-footer was already covered by my homeowner policy, leaving the 26-footer bare of any coverage. Since the value of the boat was so low, it didn’t make sense to get a full yacht policy for agreed or replacement value. Besides, such policies require a survey and there wasn’t enough in the way of finished work to bother surveying.

What I needed was something called a “liability only” policy. This type of policy only covers liability; you get nothing for the boat if it’s damaged. It does cover liability and fuel spills, lust what I needed. Most insurance companies who insure boats offer such a policy.

As a 25-year plus member of the United States Power Squadrons, I have access to their insurance program. In fact, the policy of the big boat is through USPS at a very attractive rate. I have also been a member of BoatUS since 1992 so have access to their insurance programs.

In the end, I decided to use BoatUS and their online quote system, found at: www.boatus-insurance.com/intuitiveApp/start.aspx?source= It was a simple matter to fill out the quote request and submit it to BoatUS. Within a day, I received the quote, what it covered and what was required to obtain the insurance. To obtain coverage, I had to fill out a formal application and sign it. I also had to provide current photographs of the boat. Once I had completed those steps and paid the insurance fee, BoatUS provided the insurance. They also provided my boatyard proof of insurance in the form of a Certificate of Insurance.

I’m going to provide the details of my insurance policy but remember, this is for my boat in my location, and your cost may vary.

The policy provides for $300,000 of liability coverage. That is the most prevalent rate at most yards. However, some locations ask for a higher coverage limit. For example, a local yacht club requires $500,000 of liability coverage. Check with your location to find out what level they are looking for. As mentioned above, the value of the boat itself or boating equipment is not covered. This is a liability only policy. Also included in the coverage is $854,400 for fuel or other spill liability. If your fuel tank springs a leak, this is what remediates the spill. There is also $300,000 coverage for uninsured boaters.

While I purchased the insurance to cover the boat while on land and during my restoration process, the policy also works afloat. Specified in the insurance coverage are the areas the insurance is valid for. In my case, that area is U.S. and Canadian coastal and inland waters, not much of a restriction.

The base cost of this coverage, for me and my situation and location, was $ 152.22 per year. I then received a credit for $15.22 because I had no prior losses. Total cost of a year’s worth of coverage? $137, not a bad deal in my mind. It also kept my boatyard happy so I didn’t have to look for somewhere else to keep the boat. The cost of having to move a 26-foot boat is well worth that $137!

Guest Blog: Cover Up! Choosing the Right Boat Cove

Guest Blog: Cover Up! Choosing the Right Boat Cove

So, what are you havin'? Semi-custom or custom? Polyester, acrylic-coated
polyester or poly/cotton blend? What'll it be?

When choosing a boat cover for your boat (You ARE planning on covering your boat aren't you?), the two main considerations are fit and fabric (material). So how do you decide which boat cover is right for your boat?

First, let's start with fit. Boat covers come in three fit options: universal, semi-custom and custom. Sometimes referred to as shower cap boat covers, universal covers are best suited for boats that
need protection from the elements only while mooring or in storage. A looser, non-form-fitting cover (can you say tarp), they are designed to protect a wide range of boat shapes and sizes, and are typically the least expensive option.

If you plan to trailer, store or moor your boat, semi-custom boat covers are a good choice. Designed to fit a wide variety of boats with similar styles, shapes and characteristics (bass boats, deck boats, runabouts, tournament ski boats), semi-custom covers have a moderate fit, with additional material to accommodate accessories or small size differences between makes and models. While the fit is not as precise as a custom boat cover, they are usually more affordable.

Custom covers are designed for the specific year, make and model of your boat. They provide the best fit, but you'll pay more for it. A custom cover will accommodate the boat's size, shape, and options, with a variety of reinforcements. Again, if you plan on trailering, storing, or mooring your boat, a custom cover is a great choice.

Next, the cover material you choose is an important consideration. Depending on the weather in your neck of the woods, the right fabric can make the difference between a cover that protects your boat for years and one that comes undone like Shaq at the free throw line.

Live in a sunny climate? You'll need a cover material with good UV protection. Things tend to get a little humid? You'll want a cover made from a breathable, mildew resistant fabric. If you've set up shop in an area that gets heavy rainfall, or your boat sits under snow, your primary concern will be the cover's strength, weight and resistance to penetrating water. And while no material will meet every need in all scenarios of weather, care and use, you should be able to choose one that meets most of your needs.

Poly/cotton boat covers, like Double Duck, will do the trick if your boat is stored in a covered facility out of adverse weather conditions. Providing good breathability, these covers are not recommended for wet areas, but they will give you some UV protection.

An acrylic-coated polyester cover, like Sharkskin Plus will give you increased UV resistance, plus a big boost in water repellency. The most popular material for semi-custom boat covers due to their high general durability, not to mention their modest price, they are best suited for cool, dry climates.

They're strong! They're durable! They won't stretch or shrink! Polyester
semi-custom boat covers, like Performance Polyguard, are one hundred percent polyester, provide very good water resistance and offer a fair amount of UV protection. But wait! There's also a moderate level of breathability thrown in for good measure! Perfect for cool/moist and cool/dry weather.

Let's say you're planning on going all in and springing for a custom fit cover. Well, if you've come this far, you're going to want an acrylic boat cover like Sunbrella. One hundred percent marine-grade acrylic allows the fabric to be not only water-resistant, but breathable, while producing above average strength. And of course, with a name like SUN-brella, the UV resistance is top notch, natch! Great for multiple adverse weather conditions.

So protect your investment. A boat cover is a smart, inexpensive insurance policy for your boat. With all the available options, you're sure to find the one that suits your needs.

Lee Hammerschmidt is an outdoors blogger for "Savvyboater" //www.savvyboater.com/ which sells "boat seats, boat propellers, boat fenders and buoys, and other boating supplies. Check out other blog posts at //blog.savvyboater.com

Sealing loose rivets in an aluminum boat

A reader recently asked the following question:

"I have at least one loose rivet under my floor somewhere. Is there some product that I can paint on the bottom of my fishing boat (14') that will seal it up and hold up fairly well?"

I don't know of any paint that will hold up well and seal loose rivets. You could smear 3M5200 around the rivets but it would eventually peel off.

Another solution would be to use the new Gougeon Brothers G/Flex epoxy. This is a flexible epoxy with excellent bonding properyies to metals. I would suggest the following:

1. Locate the leaking rivets. Prop the boat up and spray water inside to locate the loose rivets.

2. Dry thoroughly and sand the area around the rivets with 120 grit to remove any paint and provide some "tooth" for the epoxy.

4. Etch the area with WEST 860 Aluminum Etch Kit.

5. Mix and apply a layer of G/Flex epoxy.

Good luck!

Single to double I/O

Recently, a visitor to the Virtual Boatyard wrote:

"hello I have a 24 sportcraft that I would like to convert from a single I/O to a double I/O with maybe more hp. what kind of problems might I encounter in this endevour? "

Just off the top of my head, I can think of several issues to be concerned with.

1. Weight and balance. The additional weight in the stern will affect the fore and aft trim of the boat, with the stern digging in deeper until the boat planes.

2. Transom strength and stiffness. You will be filling in one big hole and cutting two others and the transom will likely require strengthening.

 

3. Motor mounts. Affitional stringers and motor mount will need to be installed to accept two I/Os in place of the single, adding more weight.

4. Fuel capacity. Your range will be reduced due to having twice as many engines installed. So you might get more performace for a shorter distance unless additional fuel tanks are installed.

5. It will be a whole lot of work so be sure the result will justify the time and expense involved.

 

Capt'n Pauley

Installing Solar Vents

Let’s face it, our boats usually spend more time closed up and unused than they do being used. We take great pains to seal them up and prevent water leaks from getting below. Unfortunately, this also keeps needed fresh air from circulating below. The result is the common, musty, “boat smell’ often found aboard.

 

Fresh air circulating through the boat reduces the mold and mildew growth that help produce the funky air below. This airflow is important even during the wintertime in reducing condensation below.